Back in 1988, Old Thumper put craft brewing on the map by winning the Champion Beer of Britain competition with the draught version of Old Thumper. It was brewed then by Peter Austin, called "the father of micro-brewing", in a former bakery in the Hampshire town of Ringwood. Peter has long since retired and the brewery has moved to smart new premises in the town on the site of the old Tunk's Brewery.

A young brewer named Alan Pugsley, who learned his skills from Peter Austin, moved to the United States, where he launched Shipyard Brewing in Portland, Maine, and brews his version of Old Thumper, using yeast from Ringwood. When I was in Melbourne two weeks ago, I bumped in to Rod Williams, a former Ringwood brewer who continued the Old Thumper tradition, and who moved to Australia and is now brewing Down Under. Ringwood produces more than 30,000 barrels of beer a year and was bought by Marston�s in 2007. For better or worse, this has led to greater prominence for the beers in the free trade and in supermarkets. Ringwood, Old Thumper (England) (RP) The beer is brewed with Maris Otter pale malt, with small amounts of chocolate and crystal malts (33 colour units). The hops are a blend of all English varieties: Challenger, Goldings and Progress (32 bitterness units). The deep bronze beer has a profound aroma of spicy hops, freshly-baked bread, and pear drop fruit. In the mouth, hop resins build but are beautifully balanced by sappy malt and peppery hops. The finish is long and hoppy, with tart fruit and rich malt, and a bittersweet finale. For a strong ale, it�s both bitter and refreshing. Malt: high. Fruit: high. Hops: high. 5.6% ABV, 50cl, �1.76, Morrisons.