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In this ocasional series, Roger looks at Britain's great heritage of traditional pubs clustered around our railway stations. Here, he hops aboard the Swanage service.

Rail Ale: Dorset

by Willard Clarke, 05/10

Revenge is sweet and train lovers felt a warm glow in 2009 when Swanage, the Dorset seaside town, was reunited with London by rail. It was the first direct train service since 1972. The London to Swanage service was one of thousands axed by the notorious Dr Richard Beeching in the 1960s and forced passengers heading for Swanage and Corfe Castle to leave the train at Wareham and finish the journey by bus.

Purbeck Council has agreed a �100,000 grant for new signalling and track design at Worgret Junction outside Wareham and when the work is completed a regular train service to London will be possible. A new signal box is also being built at Corfe station (below).

This is especially good news for beer lovers, for Swanage and the Isle of Purbeck have a fine collection of pubs, some of them of historic importance.

At present, the Swanage Railway runs from the coastal town to Norden Junction via Corfe Castle. The small town with the famous ruined castle - largely destroyed by Cromwell's artillery during the English Civil War - has three pubs with both fascinating history and good beer.
  

The Fox Inn in West Street is an ale house that dates from 1568, some 70 years before the civil war. It's a popular drinking house for people who take part in annual re-enactments of the siege of the castle. The exterior blends in with the rest of the stone cottages in the street. Inside a small front room leads down steep steps to the serving area, which opens out into a large room for both drinkers and diners. There's a back garden with fine views of the castle that, rather like the Mona Lisa's smile, follows you wherever you go in the town.

   There's nothing so modern as a beer engine and handpump in the Fox. Just as in the 16th century, the ales are tapped straight from casks behind the bar. The range of beers changes constantly but on my most recent visit I enjoyed both Timothy Taylor's Landlord and Greene King Abbot. As a devotee of Landlord, it's an intriguing experience to drink this celebrated Yorkshire bitter without a North Country thick collar of foam. The Fox has a covered well, which suggests beer was brewed on the premises centuries ago.

Two pubs face one another across the main square of the town. The Bankes Arms Hotel is even older than the Fox and takes its name from the aristocratic family that lived in the castle and had the misfortune to support the royalist cause in the 17th century. The pub dates from 1549 but has been upgraded over the ensuing centuries. It's built of Purbeck stone and the main bar is wood-panelled, with settles and tables. Steps lead up to a long back bar used mainly for evening meals. A spacious back garden has good views of both Corfe railway station, passing trains and the castle. The Bankes Arms, which has accommodation available, is an outlet for Ringwood's beers from Hampshire. Best Bitter is always on tap along with such seasonal as Boondoggle, Bold Forester and Porter.

The Greyhound claims to be the most photographed pub in England - not surprising as it stands at the foot of the castle mound. It's a 17th-century coaching inn on the corner of the road that runs from Swanage to Wareham. Inside a collection of small, intimate rooms leads off from the main bar. Right: looking towards The Greyhound, with the Bankes Arms to the right and castle in the background.   

The Greyhound has accommodation and under chef Andy Watts has built a deserved reputation for the quality of its food. Andy makes good use of local ingredients, including fresh fish and crabs from Swanage and other coastal towns. It has not become - heaven forfend - a gastropub but matches good beer with good food. The menu changes regularly but you may find the likes of seafood chowder, Mediterranean vegetable salad, Caesar salad, whisky chicken and mussels.

The range of cask beer includes Cottage ales from Somerset - which often have a railway theme with such brews as Broadgauge Bitter and Golden Arrow - Sharp's from Cornwall and Ringwood. The pub stages regular festivals, including a major beer and cider event over the August bank holiday weekend that spills over into a marquee at the back. See www.greyhoundcorfe.co.uk for information about festivals in 2010.

   In Swanage, the best pub in the town is the Red Lion in the High Street (left). It was built in the 17th century and has two bars and a garden. The pub is a great supporter of local breweries and one bar has an impressive collection of pump clips of many of the beers that have appeared there. Caledonian Deuchars, Ringwood Best and Taylor's Landlord are regulars, with at least three guest beers from smaller craft producers.

From Swanage buses (40, 44 and 50) take you to two other pubs of note.

There's another Bankes Arms in the village of Studland, off the main Swanage to Poole road. This 200 year-old inn, once a smuggler's haunt, is the home to the Isle of Purbeck brewery and serves a range that includes Best, Fossil Fuel, Solar Power, Studland Bay Wrecked and IPA. Accommodation is available and across the narrow road a large lawn acts as a beer garden, with superb views of Studland Bay, Old Harry Rocks and Bournemouth in the distance. The pub was the local CAMRA rural pub of the year in 2008.

No visit to Purbeck is complete without a visit to the renowned Square & Compass in the village of Worth Matravers a few miles from Swanage (44 bus). The ancient ale house, used by smugglers, the Bohemian set from London in the 1930s and RAF personnel in World War Two, has been in the hands of the Newman family for more than 100 years. Cider is brewed on the premises using apples from Wareham forest. On the spacious forecourt, chickens peck at the earth while the pub dogs roam among drinkers on warm days.   

There are dazzling views across fields to St Aldhelm's Head and the sea. If you walk down the lane to the sea, your mobile phone will switch to a French provider. Inside the inn, a narrow passage leads to a serving hatch. Beer and cider come straight from casks and the ales include Palmer's Copper from Bridport, Ringwood Best and guest beers. There are two large rooms for visitors and a fossil museum with artefacts collected from the Jurassic Coast.

For details of the Swanage train service, including timetables, visit swanagerailway.co.uk. Buses start and finish at the station.

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