local beers at Waitrose

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Waitrose thinks local

by Willard Clarke, 05/07

Waitrose is showing its commitment to Britain's local brewers by stocking local beers in all of its 183 branches. This extension to their beer portfolio follows a marked increase in sales of local beer, which Waitrose say were up by 98% between 2005 and 2006.

The supermarket is working with 85 small-scale breweries throughout the UK to stock a variety of beers. Robert Wicks of Westerham Brewery says: "We currently have three local beers in 22 Waitrose branches in Kent, Surrey and Sussex. The support Waitrose has shown to us as a local producer is a tremendous boost for our business as well as a great opportunity for more people to know and enjoy 'their' local beer."

Of course we should also support our independent beer merchants, but Waitrose is known for its support for small producers, so do have a mooch around the beer aisles of your local Waitrose (if you are lucky enough to have one). Meanwhile, here's a rundown of some of the beers to be found in branches across the UK.

local beers

Hampshire Brewery, Pride of Romsey IPA (England)

Pride of Romsey is a bottle-conditioned India Pale Ale that pours a bronze colour with a very high-rise, foamy head. On the nose aromas of tangerines and a whiff of struck match combine with leafy green herbs and some citrus notes. It is a fresh style of beer as it hits the palate, with plenty of acidity and crisp, hoppy bite. There is a creaminess to the texture, and a bit of grainy malt that adds texture through the mid-palate, but then that hop bitterness and leafy astringency makes for a dry, nicely focused finish. 5.0% ABV, 50cl, �1.69, Waitrose Dibden, Andover, Southsea, Ringwood, Salisbury, Waterlooville, Chandlers Ford, Romsey, Southampton and Lymington stores.

Hog's Back, OTT (England)

Standing for "Old Tongham Tasty" (as well as "Over The Top" perhaps), Hog's Back's bottle conditioned ale pours a very, very dark chestnut brown with minimal cream-coloured head. On the nose the roasted, malty aromas are grainy and deep, with Stout-like notes of liquorice and chocolate, and some black plum fruitiness. On the palate this mouth-filling ale has plenty of bitterness, with more liquorice and coffee notes and a nice fruity tang and acidity to just brighten the finish. 6.0% ABV, 50cl, �1.79, Waitrose Weybridge, Birch Hill, Goldsworth Park, Cobham, Woodley, West Byfleet, Sunningdale, Fleet, Yateley, Godalming, Wokingham, Staines, Twyford, Frimley and Farnham stores.

Meantime, Coffee Beer (England)

Meantime's Coffee Beer is flavoured with beans roasted by Union Coffee Roasters. It pours a very dark, dense brown with a thick, fluffy cappuccino-coloured head (appropriately enough). On the nose the coffee is distinctive, with a dark, burnt toast roast and espresso. On the palate this is dark and dramatic, with a full-bodied texture, and a really powerful essence of coffee-bean flavour; this is not a skinny latte, but a dark ristretto, more like chomping on a bitter, roasted chocolate-covered coffee bean. Chewy and dense, this is a really intriguing beer and Meantime have certainly gone for it, not flirting about with a subtle coffee flavour, but delivering the full double espresso hit. A beer that I'd guess would have its lovers and haters. 6.0% ABV, 33cl, �1.49, Waitrose London branches.

Meantime, Wheat beer Grand Cru (England)

Meantime's wheat beer "Grand Cru" is a strong (6.3%) beer that is, according to the back label, like Meantime's regular wheat beer "with knobs on." It pours a rich, distinctly hazy golden colour with moderate white head. There's a lovely expression of typical wheat beer perfume on the nose, with estery notes of banana and flowers, plenty of clove and lemon oil, and a fresh, smoky minerality. On the palate this is quite full-textured and thick, and a toffeed depth begins to emerge, showing a slightly warmer, fatter character than many continental weiss biers. The clove, coriander and crisp, zest lemon qualities do persist, in a powerful and heady wheat beer that purists may find lacks the edge of some, but which is complex and satisfying. 6.3% ABV, 33cl, �1.49 Waitrose London branches.

Oakleaf Brewing Co, Hole Hearted (England)

The Oakleaf Brewing Co from Gosport, Hampshire, brew Hole Hearted with 100% Cascade hops. It pours a rich golden colour with a moderate off-white head and some haziness. On the nose it is floral, fruity and fresh, with a background of orange oil and some biscuity notes, but plenty of punchy fruitiness. In the mouth hole-hearted has a juicy, mouthwatering character, with its quite full texture sliced through by bitter hop notes and more of that zesty, bittersweet orange. There is a background toastiness that adds some warmth, in a really terrific golden ale. 4.7% ABV, 50cl, �1.69, Waitrose Gosport, Southsea, Ringwood , Salisbury and Waterlooville stores.

Oxfordshire Ales, Marshmellow (England)

Brewed in Marsh Gibbon in Oxfordshire, this bitter pours a dark, almost mahogany colour with some amber at its core and has a moderate, off-white head. The nose offers spice and orange aromas, with a certain creamy, toffeed quality and some grassy notes in the background. On the palate this is medium bodied and quite smooth, and a roasted malt character comes through, as well as a nicely bitter hoppiness. It is not terrifically complex, but is a beer with a bit of bite and body, and is enjoyable. 4.7% ABV, 50cl, �1.45, Waitrose Milton Keynes, Thame, Abingdon and Towcester branches.

Teignworthy, Old Moggie (England)

Old Moggie is named after the classic British car, the Morris Minor. A golden ale, Old Moggie pours quite a deep, bronze-tinged colour with a fluffy cream/white head. Orange is the dominating aroma on the nose, with a bit of biscuity malt and just a suggestion of grassy hops. On the palate this is quite crisp and racy, with a nice green streak of endive bitterness, though it perhaps lacks a bit of flavour and stuffing on the mid-palate. A decent, nicely bitter beer that at 4.4% ABV would make for good session drinking. 4.4% ABV, 50cl, �1.69, Waitrose Okehampton and Sidmouth branches.

Brains, SA Gold (Wales)

Brewed with Target hops, but late-hopped with Styrian Goldings and Cascade, Brains SA Gold pours a bright golden colour with a moderate off-white head. There's a deal of Sugar Puff, malty aroma initially, but the endive and chicory qualities of the hops come through, with a touch of flint and quite vegetal nuances. On the palate that broad, caramel and burnt orange malt character is again quite powerful, but it is balanced by the fresh, leafy hoppiness and a zesty appeal. Dry and fresh in the finish, this is a crisp and satisfying beer. 4.7% ABV, 500cl, �1.69, Waitrose Barry store.

Brains, SA Premium Beer (Wales)

Sold in cans, this "Premium Beer" pours a dark, burnished gold with a moderate, just off-white head. The nose is biscuity and quite fruity, with a hint of leafy green vegetables and some lemony notes. On the palate there's a soft pillow of malty, easy-drinking flavour, with just about enough hops to give it an edge. It's a fairly well-balanced beer however, with a bittersweet edge and dry finish. 4.2% ABV, 44.cl, �3.99 X 4, Waitrose Westbury Park, Monmouth, Abergavenny and Barry branches.

Wye Valley, Dorothy Goodbody's Golden Ale (England)

(RP) The beer is brewed with Maris Otter pale malt with a touch of crystal and wheat malts. The hops are Fuggles and East Kent Goldings. It has a burnished pale bronze colour with a delightful and tempting aroma of citrus fruits, peppery hops and biscuity malt. The palate is packed with tart and tangy orange and lemon fruits, balanced by spicy hops and juicy malt. The finish lingers, starts bittersweet but become dry and refreshing with tart fruit and hop resins. 4.2% ABV, 50cl, �1.69, Waitrose Stourbridge, Monmouth, Great Malvern, Great Malvern, Cheltenham and Abergavenny branches.

Hook Norton, Old Hooky Premium Ale (England)

This beer pours a lovely medium ruby colour with a rather short-lived head. It has a very distinctive, spicy nose with hints of clove and cinnamon and a lovely cherry fruit character. On the palate this creamy-textured beer has an immediate sweetness that is rounded and fruity, with a nicely-judged crystal malt character and a fine twist of hoppy bitterness. It stays quite sweet in the mouth, making it easy to drink, but a very nicely balanced beer. 4.6% ABV, 50cl, �1.69, Waitrose Witney, Kingsthorpe , Leighton Buzzard, Daventry, Stroud, Abingdon, Cirencester, Cheltenham, Towcester and Rushden branches.

St Austell, Tribute (England)

Brewed with Cornish spring water and Cornish Gold Malt, Tribute was first brewed in 1999 using Wilamett hops, which are perhaps responsible for its distinctive citrus and elderflower nose. Pouring a pale bronze colour with a moderate white head, the aromatics really do lift from the glass, with floral and summery hop notes, and an undertow of caramel. On the palate this is medium- to full-bodied, with a lovely juicy fruit quality, and masses of tangy hop, orange and grapefruit flavours. It is long and well balanced, staying fresh and crisp thanks to fine acidity and hoppy bite. A subtle, delicate, but lovely beer. 4.2% ABV, 50cl, �1.69, Waitrose Dorchester, Okehampton, Saltash and Sidmouth branches.

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